Tsujun Brewery turns the harsh natural environment of Yamato, Kumamoto, into an advantage, pursuing the true essence of “Jizake” (local sake) through local rice, water, and people. Its most distinctive feature is the exclusive use of “Kumamoto Yeast”—the ancestor of the famous Association No. 9 Yeast—across its entire lineup, from Ginjo to Futsu-shu. This results in a refined, gentle flavor with a subtle aroma, achieving perfection as a food-pairing sake. As Kumamoto’s oldest brewery with over 250 years of history, it continues to brew sake that breathes with local character, such as “Tsujun,” which reflects regional stories; “Semi,” which gains depth through a year of aging; and “Hotarumaru,” named after a legendary traditional sword.
1. History and Background
Founded in 1770 (Meiwa 7) in Hamamachi, Yamato, Tsujun Brewery was established by the founder, Seikuro “Bizenya,” as an industry to save a village struggling under heavy taxes. The “Kansei-gura” (Kansei Warehouse), built in 1792, is recognized as the oldest existing brewing warehouse in Kumamoto Prefecture.
During the late Edo period, the brewery served as a “Honjin” (official lodging) for the Hosokawa Lords of the Higo Domain. The “Onari-no-ma” (the Lord’s Room), featuring original sliding door paintings and hanging scrolls, is preserved to this day. It also served as a historical stage in 1877 during the Satsuma Rebellion, acting as the headquarters for Saigo Takamori’s army.
The brand name “Tsujun” is derived from the Tsujun Bridge, a regional icon completed in 1854. Due to a familial connection—the niece of Yasunosuke Futa, the bridge’s builder, married into the brewing family—the sake was named after the bridge that saved people from water shortages, hoping the sake would likewise “moisten” people’s hearts. Despite suffering devastating damage in the 2016 Kumamoto Earthquake, with ten warehouses collapsing, President Yasuo Yamashita decided on a “reconstruction that contributes to the development of the entire region,” leading to a grand reopening in 2019 after renovating the historic facilities.
2. Brewing Philosophy
Tsujun Brewery is deeply committed to “Regionalism,” utilizing the climate and terroir of Yamato. By sourcing nearly 100% of their rice through local contract farming and using local spring water, they aim to create “authentic local sake” that can only be produced in this specific land.
The brewery adheres to the traditional “Kanzukuri” (cold-weather brewing). Situated at an altitude of approximately 500 meters, they utilize the severe winter cold to manage temperatures during fermentation, ensuring a clean brewing process that suppresses unwanted bacteria. Furthermore, they view brewing not just as manufacturing, but as an act of creating “a place to experience a rich life,” emphasizing the communication of regional culture and stories through the brewery.
Environmentally, they practice “Circular Brewing,” where sake lees are used as cattle feed, and the resulting compost is returned to the rice fields. This modern corporate philosophy reduces waste while directly linking sustainable agriculture with sake production.
3. Characteristics of Ingredients and Production
The sake of Tsujun is born through a rigorous process nurtured by Kumamoto’s unique materials and climate.
- Rice Selection: Working with the local agricultural cooperative, they use 100% Yamato-grown rice. Key varieties include Yamada Nishiki for Ginjo, Kumamoto-developed Hananishiki, and Reihou for the Hotarumaru brand. The organic Junmai Sakuya uses pesticide-free rice grown via the Aigamo (duck) farming method.
- Brewing Water: They utilize 100% pure spring water from Yamato, which serves as the headwaters for some of Kyushu’s major rivers.
- Exclusive Use of “Kumamoto Yeast”: Every product uses Kumamoto Yeast, the root of Association No. 9 Yeast. This yeast provides strong fermentation power and imparts an elegant, gentle taste with a subtle aroma that complements food.
Representative Brands:
- Tsujun: A Junmai Daiginjo with a floral aroma and fresh taste.
- Semi (Cicada): A Junmai Ginjo aged for one year to bring out depth and fullness.
- Hotarumaru: A light and dry Junmai Ginjo inspired by a local legend of fireflies healing a chipped blade, aimed at “healing” the hearts of drinkers.
4. Current Initiatives
Having achieved full recovery, Tsujun Brewery is accelerating new developments that fuse history and innovation.
- Repurposing “Kansei-gura”: Renovated in 2019, Kumamoto’s oldest warehouse now serves as a “hospitality hub” featuring a tasting space and café to share the stories behind the sake. Modern hygiene management based on HACCP has also been introduced.
- Circular Agriculture Hub: By establishing a system where sake lees are provided as feed to local farmers and the resulting compost is used for sake rice, they lead regional resource circulation.
- Promoting Brewery Tourism: They focus on creating “moving experiences” where visitors can experience the background of sake brewing through all five senses, offering public access to the historic Onari-no-ma, free brewery tours, and tasting sets.
- Regional Collaboration: They develop products that embody community bonds, such as “Hibari,” a Junmai sake limited to specialty stores developed in unison with local producers, artists, and regional sake research groups.Having achieved full recovery, Tsujun Brewery is accelerating new developments that fuse history and innovation.
Through the bridge of local sake, Tsujun Brewery now looks toward the global market, positioning Yamato’s craft as a link between the region and the world.