Located in Murayama City, Yamagata Prefecture, Takagi Shuzo is the brewery that revolutionized the industry by shifting the trend from the once-dominant “Tanrei Karakuchi” (light and dry) style to the now-celebrated “Hojun Umaguchi” (rich and savory). Symbolized by its flagship brand, “Juyondai,” its sake is characterized by a multi-layered personality that balances a bold, voluminous umami and sweetness with a vibrant, fruity aroma. This peerless quality is achieved through precise technical interventions based on brewing science, the development of proprietary sake rice over 18 years, and rigorous quality control.
The “Kuramoto Toji” (Owner-Brewer) approach—sensing the condition of microbes by sharpening both the five senses and empirical data—ensures consistent high quality and reproducibility. The brewery’s passion for evolving toward the “ideal sake” by fusing traditional manual craftsmanship with the latest scientific approaches continues to captivate enthusiasts worldwide.
1. History and Background
Founded in 1615 (the first year of the Genna era), Takagi Shuzo is a distinguished brewery with over 400 years of history. In Murayama City, Yamagata, the brewery has long upheld the tradition of the head of the family inheriting the name “Tatsugoro.”
A major turning point occurred in the early 1990s during a generational transition. Akitsuna Takagi (the current 15th-generation head), who had been working at a department store, returned to his hometown and took over the brewing process as the “Kuramoto Toji” in 1993. By merging his knowledge of brewing science with consumer needs, he pursued a style that maximized the umami of rice, leading to the birth of the modern “Juyondai” brand in 1994.
The name “Juyondai” (meaning “14th Generation”) was originally a label used by his predecessor for aged sake. An interesting anecdote remains: when applying for trademarks for “13th Generation” through “16th Generation,” only “Juyondai” passed the examination, as numbers alone were typically difficult to register at the time. Additionally, in the local Yamagata region, the brand “Asahitaka” has remained immensely popular and supported by the community for generations.
2. Brewing Philosophy
The core of Takagi Shuzo’s brewing philosophy is encapsulated in the company motto: “Listen to the voiceless, see the formless.” This signifies the brewer’s posture of sharpening both their senses and data to perceive the state of invisible microorganisms, such as yeast and koji mold, ensuring they can perform their best.
The current head defines sake brewing as a world that can be “entirely explained through physics, chemistry, mathematics, and biology.” Rather than relying solely on intuition or romance, he emphasizes reproducibility through thorough data management. Despite his success, he maintains a “first-year spirit,” treating each year’s unique rice characteristics with humility and a commitment to continuous improvement.
While the facility actively introduces the latest equipment and technology to enhance reproducibility, traditional manual labor is maintained for processes requiring delicate sensations, such as measuring water absorption time and adjusting steamed rice. This “fusion of tradition and technology” supports their stable, high-level quality. Furthermore, the brewery does not allow public tours, maintaining a strict focus on production and quality management.
3. Characteristics of Ingredients and Production
Takagi Shuzo possesses unique assets in its raw materials and production methods that set it apart from other breweries.
- Breeding Proprietary Rice: To express flavors suited to the climate of Yamagata, the 14th-generation head spent over 18 years developing proprietary sake rice varieties. Notable examples include “Tatsunootoshigo” (characterized by a sharp finish), “Sake Mirai” (possessing rich umami), and “Ushu Homare” (optimized for Yamagata’s soil).
- Brewing Water: The brewery uses “Sakura Shimizu,” subsurface water from Mt. Hayama in the Ouu Mountain Range. This exceptionally pure water, filtered underground over many years, is the source of the product’s signature soft mouthfeel and refined crispness.
- Unique Technical Methods: Their back labels often mention specialized techniques such as “Hiden Tamakaeshi,” where proprietary Shochu distilled in-house is added instead of standard brewer’s alcohol to add richness and depth. Another is “Shichitare Nijukkan,” a method of collecting only the “shizuku” (droplets) that fall naturally without applied pressure.
- Quality Preservation: They employ “Binkan” (pasteurization in the bottle) to prevent the loss of aroma and “Sub-zero Storage” (minus-degree temperature control) to maintain freshness and precisely control the maturation process.
The stability of these technical capabilities is objectively proven; the brewery has achieved the remarkable feat of winning the Gold Medal at the National New Sake Competition for nine consecutive years.
4. Current Initiatives
Rather than resting on its 400-year history, Takagi Shuzo focuses on revitalizing the entire sake industry and preparing for the future.
- Contributing to the Next Generation: The brewery has shared its proprietary rice, “Sake Mirai,” with approximately 26 ambitious young brewers across Japan to encourage diversity and quality improvement in the industry. They also provide brewing advice to fellow brewers, contributing to the overall growth of the sake world.
- Supporting Local Agriculture: Through contract farming of proprietary rice, they build partnerships with local farmers, providing economic support and preserving the landscape of rice paddies. In Murayama City’s “Furusato Nozei” (hometown tax donation) program, their rare brands are used as return gifts, contributing significantly to the local economy.
- Future Investment: To ensure a stable brewing environment resistant to natural disasters, the brewery was rebuilt as a robust reinforced concrete facility. The introduction of the latest temperature control systems allows for stable brewing throughout the year.
- Pride as “Kokushu” (National Liquor): The brewery aims to reach the pinnacle of fermentation culture using Japanese “rice and water” without simply imitating foreign production methods.
Takagi Shuzo stands as a model for modern sake brewing—continuously transforming itself while honoring its long-standing traditions.