At Kankiku Meijo, the ultimate goal is to “fulfill the hearts” of those who drink their sake. To achieve this, their entire lineup is brewed as Junmai Muroka Genshu (pure rice, unfiltered, and undiluted). Their defining characteristic is a dense yet remarkably fresh flavor profile that captures the vibrancy of sake straight from the press. In particular, the “OCEAN99” series—inspired by the sea and seasons of Kujukuri—has gained immense popularity for its juicy mouthfeel accompanied by a delicate, champagne-like effervescence. Led by a young Toji (Master Brewer) with the unique background of a former aircraft mechanic, the “Team Kankiku” staff practices rigorous quality control down to the second, pouring their sincerity into every drop. By transcending the framework of traditional dry sake, their commitment to delivering a taste of the “now” that resonates with modern sensibilities continues to captivate fans everywhere.
1. History and Background
The history of Kankiku Meijo began in 1883, when Gensaku Sase started brewing “Kankiku” in Sanbu District, Chiba Prefecture. The name “Kankiku” (Winter Chrysanthemum) was chosen to reflect the desire to brew sake with a strong “core,” likening the brewery to a chrysanthemum that blooms with dignity in the harsh winter cold. While they operated as a community-focused local brewery for over a century, a major turning point arrived in the late 1990s. In 1997, the 4th-generation owner made the bold decision to obtain a beer brewing license, diversifying into the craft beer business.
Under the leadership of the 5th-generation owner, Kenichi Sase, the brewery underwent radical organizational reform and rebranding. Around 2019, Ryosuke Yagishita, an unconventional talent who formerly worked as an aircraft mechanic, was appointed as the Toji. After five years of apprenticeship under the previous Master Brewer, Yagishita established a meticulous management system leveraging his experience in aviation maintenance. Under this new regime, the brewery shifted to 100% Junmai production and revamped its branding, evolving from a traditional establishment into an innovative brewery that meets contemporary needs.
2. Brewing Philosophy
Kankiku Meijo’s highest philosophy is to “fulfill the hearts of those who drink our sake.” To manifest this, they focus on maintaining the absolute freshness of a newly brewed product by combining respect for traditional handwork with extreme physical control over the brewing environment. In terms of management, they emphasize a collaborative workspace known as “Team Kankiku,” which values the motivation and autonomy of every employee.
Drawing from his mechanic background, Yagishita employs an approach that fuses thinking with bodily sensations rather than relying solely on manuals. This philosophy is summarized in three forms of “Kokoro” (spirit/heart): Innovation (Kakushin), Peace of Mind (Anshin), and Sincerity (Magokoro). Furthermore, starting in the 2020 brewing year, the brewery transitioned to “Three-Season Brewing” (Sanki Jozo) within fully refrigerated facilities. This system allows for brewing from autumn through spring, ensuring stable quality and high-precision management year-round.
3. Characteristics of Ingredients and Methods
A key element of their brewing is the water. They use subsurface water that wells up near the roots of a massive, 200-to-300-year-old persimmon tree located on the brewery grounds. This soft water contains moderate minerals, giving the sake a unique crispness and flavor while balancing sweetness and acidity.
The sake rice is strictly selected based on the specific product concept. While prioritizing local agriculture by using Chiba-grown varieties like Sounomai, Fusakogane, and Koshihikari, they also source premium sake rice from across Japan, such as Yamada Nishiki (Hyogo) and Omachi (Okayama). They conduct a wide range of experimental brews, with rice polishing ratios varying from high-polish 50% Yamada Nishiki to low-polish 90% Koshihikari.
In the brewing process, physical quality control is paramount. During the washing and soaking stages, water absorption is adjusted down to the second to reach the ideal moisture level. To prevent degradation, freshly pressed sake is sent directly to refrigerated thermal tanks. For post-bottling heat treatment, they utilize a pasteurizer to lock in the fresh, vibrant flavors typically found only in unpasteurized (Nama) sake.
4. Current Initiatives
The brewery is currently energetic in expanding its new brand series with clearly defined concepts. Their flagship “Fusa-no-Kankiku Discovery Series” deeply explores Chiba-grown materials and themes, offering sakes like “Identity” (meaning proof of existence) and “New Sensation,” which aims to satisfy the modern drinker’s heart.
The “OCEAN99” limited series, which conveys the terroir of the Kujukuri coast, releases sakes inspired by the seasonal scenes of the sea and sky, such as Ginkai (Silver Sea – Winter), Nagi (Lull – Spring), and Toukai (Orange Sea – Autumn). Their lineup also includes the “Occasional” series—an ultra-limited Muroka Genshu brewed only once a year—and the passionately designed “Aiyama 50 – Red Diamond -,” all crafted to turn daily life into special moments.
Additionally, the locally cherished brand “Matsuo Jiman” has been rebranded as “Re:make,” using 100% Chiba-grown rice. Transcending the boundaries of sake, they are also expanding the “KANKIKU BREWERY” beer brand, which uses Koshihikari rice as a secondary ingredient. With a weapon of sophisticated design and fresh taste, Kankiku Meijo is accelerating its global expansion, aiming to build a model for sustainable brewing for the world market.