Horie Sakaba, the oldest brewery in Yamaguchi Prefecture, produces sake characterized by a translucent and elegant quality—a result of the sophisticated fusion of traditional family techniques and modern quality control. Centered around their flagship brand, “Kin-suzume” (Golden Sparrow), the brewery remains committed to labor-intensive brewing methods, such as “Kimoto-zukuri” (incorporating natural lactic acid bacteria from the air) and “Fukuro-tsuri” (hanging bags to collect only the naturally dripping droplets of sake). Guided by the principle of “offering the finest, even in small quantities,” they also undertake innovative product development. This includes extreme technical feats, such as polishing the rare rice variety “Isehikari” down to a 18% polishing ratio, as well as the use of ancient rice varieties. Brewed with subsurface water from the pristine Nishiki River and subjected to low-temperature, long-term fermentation in a cool climate, every drop embodies the brewers’ daily pursuit of “ever-evolving inspiration.”
1. History and Background
The history of Horie Sakaba Co., Ltd. dates back to 1764 (the first year of the Meiwa era) in the mid-Edo period. It was founded in Nishiki-machi, Yamaguchi Prefecture, by Tarobe Horie, a retainer of the Mori family, the lords of the Choshu Clan. At its inception, the brewery’s trade name was “Jakushudo,” and while the sake was initially distributed under the name “Horie,” the brand was later unified as “Kin-suzume.”
The name “Suzume” (Sparrow) stems from historical backgrounds where the bird was revered as a messenger of the gods and a symbol of a bountiful harvest, representing a good omen. Originally, other brands such as “Gin-suzume” (Silver Sparrow) and “Fuku-suzume” (Lucky Sparrow) were also produced for different purposes.
Since the 1950s, the brewery has gradually modernized its facilities, transitioning from wooden vats to enamel tanks and introducing automated rice-polishing machines. Currently, the 12th-generation head, Yoshio Horie, manages the business, while Keizen Horie serves as the Toji (Master Brewer). Together, they maintain the status of the oldest brewery in Yamaguchi while ensuring the succession of their craft. In 2021, marking approximately 257 years since its founding, the brewery updated its environment for the modern era by establishing new visitor parking, all while continuing to cherish its rich history.
2. Brewing Philosophy
Horie Sakaba operates under the management guideline of “Sake-making, People-making, and Town-making,” centering its activities on the preservation of tradition and contribution to the local community. Their brewing process is fundamentally built upon combining ancestral family techniques with contemporary brewing management.
Master Brewer Keizen Horie adheres strictly to the policy of “the best in small quantities.” This approach prioritizes the pursuit of brewing sake that brings daily inspiration to the brewers themselves, rather than focusing on mass production, with the ultimate goal of creating products that move the hearts of consumers.
Furthermore, under the belief that “there is no ‘perfection’ in sake-making,” they approach brewing by sharpening both their skills and their five senses, working to convey the timeless appeal of sake across generations. This stoic attitude is strongly reflected in the time-consuming brewing stages, such as the Kimoto method and meticulous long-term aging management.
3. Characteristics of Ingredients and Production
The foundation of their sake-making lies in the abundant resources provided by the natural environment of Nishiki-machi and their advanced technical capabilities.
- Water Environment: The brewery utilizes the rich water resources of the Nishiki River, which is designated as one of the “100 Exquisite Waters of Japan” by the Ministry of the Environment. They use subsurface water (ranging from soft to medium-hard) from the main stream of the Nishiki River and its tributary, the Usa River, which supports the translucency of their products.
- Diversity of Raw Rice: Different rice varieties are selected according to the product concept. In addition to high-quality “Yamada Nishiki” grown locally in Nishiki-machi, they use “Saito-no-Shizuku,” a sake rice unique to Yamaguchi Prefecture, and “Isehikari,” grown by specific farmers without chemical fertilizers. Furthermore, ancient rice (black-purple rice) grown in the Yamashiro area of Iwakuni City is used to promote regional revitalization.
Technical Features:
- Kimoto Method: Strong yeast is cultivated using traditional methods to create a sake structure capable of withstanding long-term aging.
- Extreme Polishing: For their “Mujaku” brand, they apply extremely advanced technology to polish Isehikari rice down to a 18% polishing ratio.
- Original Yeast: “Yamaguchi Sakura Yeast,” isolated and developed from cherry blossom petals, is used in their ancient rice products to achieve a unique, floral aroma and acidity.
- Long-term Aging: Under thorough temperature control, sake is aged for periods ranging from several years to over a decade. They have successfully commercialized “hidden treasures” aged for 15 years or more.
4. Current Initiatives
Horie Sakaba is currently engaged in industrial collaborations that maximize local resources and unique aging projects.
- Aging Using Railway Infrastructure: In partnership with the Nishikigawa Railway, the brewery stores sake inside the “Kirara Yume Tunnel,” through which the local “Tokotoko Train” runs. Through events like “Sake Time Travel: Mu-min,” where participants write their dreams on bottles to be stored in the tunnel for five years, they offer aging as a new form of value.
- Ancient Rice Project: For over a decade, they have collaborated with farmers and the Chamber of Commerce in the Yamashiro area of Iwakuni City to cultivate ancient rice (with an eye toward utilizing fallow fields) and develop the sake “Kuro-mine.” This has led to an industrial chain, such as the development of ice cream using the resulting sake lees.
- High-end Brand Expansion: Through the jointly developed brand “MUJAKU,” they aim to establish vintage sake where the aging process itself is the primary value.
- Sustainable Brewing: In recent years, the brewery has strengthened its lineup with products like “Eternal Kin-suzume” and “Organic Junmai Daiginjo,” which use organically grown rice. These efforts aim to harmonize natural environments with traditional techniques for both domestic and international markets.