Located in Tsubata, Ishikawa Prefecture, Kuze Shuzoten is the only brewery in Japan that has maintained a “fully integrated production” system for over 230 years—growing its own exclusive sake rice, “Chosei-mai,” and brewing it on-site. Under the leadership of the ninth-generation owner, who carries on the traditional skills of the Noto Toji (one of Japan’s major brewing guilds), the brewery eschews large-scale automation in favor of manual labor. Every drop reflects the rich nature of the land and the refined skills of the craftsman.
Their flagship brand, “Choseimai,” is prized for its refreshing crispness when served cold and its deep umami when warmed. Meanwhile, “Notoji” is known for its powerful, dry finish and has long been a staple at the high-end ryokan (traditional inns) of the Noto region. Having navigated the catastrophic damage of the 2024 Noto Peninsula Earthquake, the brewery’s current efforts toward reconstruction and the preservation of regional sake culture are a testament to their indomitable spirit and profound love for their craft.
1. History and Background
The history of the Kuze family dates back to 1766, when their ancestors operated as shipping merchants (kaisen-donya). In 1786, the first-generation Kazaemon branched off to establish the brewery in its current location in Tsubata. Founded on the conviction that “to brew good sake, one must start with good rice,” Kazaemon began by tilling his own fields. This farm-to-bottle approach remains the brewery’s most defining characteristic.
While many neighboring breweries closed over the centuries, Kuze Shuzoten persisted through a spirit of continuous improvement and innovation. In 2018, Yoshihiro Kuze, who studied brewing at the Tokyo University of Agriculture, became the ninth-generation president. He currently serves as the Kuramoto-Toji (owner-brewmaster), standing on the front lines of production.
On January 1, 2024, the Noto Peninsula Earthquake brought the greatest crisis in the brewery’s history. The historic storehouse (built in 1886) collapsed, the office was severely damaged, and much of the manufacturing equipment was buried under rubble. Furthermore, the temporary closure of famous Noto inns—their primary clients—forced a massive recall of inventory. Despite these setbacks, the ninth-generation head remains resolute, stating, “I cannot let the brewery of my ancestors end here,” as he leads the march toward recovery.
2. Brewing Philosophy
The hallmark of Kuze Shuzoten is its uncompromising commitment to “Estate Brewing”—cultivating their own raw materials. Unlike most breweries that purchase rice from external suppliers, Kuze has grown its own unique rice strain for over 230 years. This allows them to master the quality of the raw materials from the cultivation stage and understand exactly how the rice will behave during each step of the brewing process.
Brewing is directed by a craftsman certified as a Noto Toji. At Kuze, certain families have inherited this title for generations, passing down traditional techniques from parent to child for hundreds of years. Today, the ninth-generation head carries this weight, practicing meticulous, handmade sake production.
Beyond producing new sake, the brewery also focuses on long-term aging (Koshu), storing stocks for 20 to 30 years. By blending these aged stocks with fresh batches, they create a flavor profile with unique character and dignity. The process relies heavily on sensory cues; the brewmaster directly touches the steamed rice and the koji to assess their condition, adjusting the environment to suit the specific qualities of that year’s harvest.
3. Ingredients and Production Methods
The primary ingredient is “Chosei-mai,” a proprietary sake rice variety found nowhere else. Over two centuries, this strain has been selectively bred to achieve the ideal shape for sake production. Chosei-mai is characterized by large grains and an exceptionally large shinpaku (the starchy white core). This ensures a high concentration of pure starch with fewer components that cause off-flavors. However, the rice has a notably low water absorption rate, making the “soaking” process extremely difficult to manage and requiring the expert judgment of a seasoned brewmaster.
The brewery also employs a unique technique using two types of water with different properties:
- In-house Groundwater (Hard Water): Rich in minerals, it activates the yeast to produce a crisp “male” sake (otoko-zake).
- Shimizu Spring Water (Soft Water): Promotes gentle fermentation to create a mellow, delicate “female” sake (onna-zake).
By switching between these two water sources depending on the stage of fermentation, they achieve a unique flavor that combines a powerful “snap” with deep delicacy. Starting fermentation with hard water to encourage yeast activity and switching to soft water at the perfect moment is a signature Kuze method.
4. Current Initiatives
The current primary objective is the reconstruction of facilities following the earthquake. Despite being occupied with his own brewery’s recovery, Yoshihiro Kuze has provided “joint brewing support” by offering his space and equipment to neighboring brewers whose facilities were destroyed. This stems from a strong sense of solidarity—the desire to “never let the sake of Noto die out”—and places Kuze Shuzoten at the heart of protecting regional culture.
Their brand strategy focuses on two pillars:
- Choseimai: Named the “Sake of Longevity” by the Maeda clan of the Kaga Domain. It offers a clean, refreshing feel when cold, while its rich umami becomes prominent when warmed.
- Notoji: Deeply connected to Noto culture, this classic brand has long been served at luxury ryokans like Kagaya in Wakura Onsen. Brewed primarily with hard water, it is a sturdy, tightly-knit dry sake.
Additionally, the brewery produces fermented foods such as “Nuri-zuke no moto” (a pickling base) using sake lees (sake kasu). By utilizing rare aged sake that miraculously survived the earthquake to fund reconstruction efforts, Kuze Shuzoten continues to innovate while ensuring their tradition is carried into the future.