Based in Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture, Fumigiku Shuzo practices a highly pure, craft-oriented approach to sake brewing, dedicating the same time and meticulous effort to every product as one would for a premium Daiginjo. Their flagship brand, “Haneya,” is defined by its “Shiki-jozo” (four-season brewing) system. This year-round brewing allows them to consistently provide sake with the vibrant freshness of a product that has just been pressed. Under the direction of Keiki Hane, the current president who also serves as the Toji (Master Brewer), the brewery maintains rigorous manual control over every detail—from small-batch rice washing in 10kg units to “limited water absorption” timed down to the second. Driven by the belief that “commercial sake meant for the general market should, above all, be delicious,” their sake carries the transparent umami of the Tateyama mountain springs, aiming for a light, soaring sensation that lifts the drinker’s spirits.
1. History and Background
Fumigiku Shuzo was founded in 1916 in Toyama City. At its inception, the chief priest of the family temple named the brewery “Fumigiku,” expressing the wish for it to be “a representative sake of Toyama, as fragrant and beautiful as a chrysanthemum.” However, during the 1990s, the brewery faced severe management challenges due to the general decline of the sake industry. To overcome this crisis, Keiki Hane returned to the brewery in 1995, learned the craft from veteran Toji, and established a system where he personally oversaw production.
In 2002, the brewery launched “Haneya,” a new brand bearing the family’s ancient shop name. To meet rapidly growing demand and ensure a constant supply of fresh sake, the brewery fully transitioned to a “four-season brewing” system in the summer of 2012 by installing refrigeration throughout the facility. In 2015, Hane officially became the Toji, establishing the current “Kuramoto-Toji” style, where management and brewing are integrated.
2. Brewing Philosophy
At the core of the company is the ideal of “brewing all sake with the same care as Daiginjo” and the philosophy of “raising the quality of commercially available sake to the highest level.” This means applying premium Daiginjo techniques to every product in their lineup, not just to special competition-grade sake.
The brewery views sake making not merely as a matter of numerical management, but as a task requiring “the sensitivity to perceive the workings of nature.” Just as microorganisms react to the seasons, they believe that supreme quality—unreachable by data alone—is born when craftsmen sharpen their five senses. Furthermore, the four-season brewing environment allows the brewers to engage with sake throughout the year, dramatically accelerating their technical mastery.
3. Ingredients and Production Methods
The brewing process relies on thorough manual labor, leveraging the advantages of a small-scale brewery.
- Rice Processing: For all premium sake (Tokutei Meishoshu), they eschew efficiency in favor of hand-washing rice in small 10kg batches. During the soaking stage, they practice “limited water absorption,” using stopwatches to manage moisture levels to the second to achieve the ideal state of the rice.
- Koji Making: Instead of using mass-production machinery, they use traditional “Hako-koji” (box) or “Buta-koji” (lid) methods. This 24-hour manual process brings out the unique character of every grain of rice.
- Fermentation and Pressing: Using crystal-clear underground water from the Tateyama Mountain Range (reaching altitudes of 3,000 meters), the sake is fermented slowly at low temperatures. For pressing, they use a “Sake-bune” (traditional press), applying weight gradually to prevent off-flavors.
- Quality Control: Once pressed, the sake is immediately bottled and stored in sub-zero refrigerators—a method called “Bin-gakoi”—to lock in its fresh flavor.
- Ingredients: They express the “Toyama Terroir” by using local rice varieties such as Gohyakumangoku and Tominoka, alongside Yamada Nishiki. They also explore rare varieties from outside the prefecture, such as Aiyama and Hokkaido’s Ginpu, as part of their “Sake Rice Exploration Series.”
4. Current Initiatives
Currently, the brewery focuses on expanding its line of fresh-pressed products through year-round brewing, centered on the “Haneya” brand.
- Representative Products: Their lineup features clearly defined concepts, including “Kirabi,” inspired by fireworks in the night sky; “Tsubasa” (Wings), known for its light and juicy character; and “Prism,” which pursues the shortest possible bottling time for a completely unfiltered experience. They also offer modern options like the low-alcohol “SHINE” and sparkling sake.
- Regional Collaboration: Products are designed with an emphasis on pairing with local Toyama Bay delicacies, such as “White Shrimp” (the jewel of Toyama Bay) and “Firefly Squid.” By maintaining deep ties with local restaurants, they have created an environment where their sake is enjoyed alongside traditional regional cuisine.
- Future Outlook: Fumigiku Shuzo seeks sustainability as a dedicated sake brewery. While maintaining a high-quality, small-batch style, they aim to pass down the “intuition and experience of the craftsman” from the Kuramoto-Toji to the local brewers. While honoring tradition, they continue to refine their quality by utilizing rare rice varieties and incorporating technical feedback that defies conventional wisdom.