Located in the Otsuru district of Hita City, Oita Prefecture, Inoue Shuzo is a brewery that prides itself on producing mellow, drinkable “Umaguchi” (rich and savory) sake. Their craft is deeply rooted in the use of subsurface water from the Mt. Hikosan system and rice grown in their own fields. Under the leadership of Yuri Inoue, Oita Prefecture’s first female Kuramoto Toji (Owner-Brewer), the brewery adheres to the philosophy that “Sake starts from the rice.” The brewers themselves are involved in every step, from transplanting rice seedlings to the final brewing process. Centered on their flagship brand, “Kakunoi,” the brewery maintains a distinct personality through meticulous hand-crafting—most notably the “Yuri-shikomi” series, which is brewed in ultra-small batches roughly one-tenth the size of standard production. By utilizing the cold climate of the Hita Basin and traditional low-temperature fermentation, they continue to pursue sake that reflects the local terroir: transparent yet possessing a comforting warmth from the rice.
1. History and Background
Founded in 1804 (the first year of the Bunka era) during the late Edo period, Inoue Shuzo is a venerable brewery with a history spanning over 220 years. It is based in the Otsuru district at the northern edge of Hita City, a region often referred to as the “Little Kyoto of Kyushu.” The name of their flagship brand, “Kakunoi,” is derived from a “square well” (kaku-no-i) located on the brewery grounds since its founding, the water of which has been used for brewing for centuries.
Historically, the brewery is also famous as the birthplace of Junnosuke Inoue, who served as the Governor of the Bank of Japan and the Minister of Finance. The brewery incorporated in 1954 and, in 1964, constructed “Gorinkan”—a four-season brewing facility built to commemorate the Tokyo Olympics—ensuring a stable supply system. Currently, the 7th-generation head, Yuri Inoue, serves as both President and Master Brewer. It has already been decided that her daughter, Hanako, will succeed her as the 8th generation, ensuring the preservation of tradition through family management.
2. Brewing Philosophy
The brewing philosophy of Inoue Shuzo is built upon three pillars—Quality, Tradition, and Innovation—grounded in the family motto of “Ento” (Long-term Vision). This spirit of “Ento” means maintaining a long-term perspective; rather than chasing short-term profits or efficiency, the brewery focuses on what they can do for people 100 years from now. This guide encourages a brewing practice that coexists harmoniously with the local community and the natural environment.
Their specific goal is to create “sake that one never tires of drinking” while maintaining a delicate flavor. To achieve this, they place great importance on the idea that “sake starts from the rice,” pursuing originality by completing the entire process—from cultivation to brewing—with their own hands. By emphasizing traditional methods like parallel multiple fermentation and low-temperature fermentation, they build a flavor profile that truly reflects the local spirit.
3. Characteristics of Ingredients and Production
The natural environment of Hita is deeply intertwined with the brewery’s core ingredients and methods.
- Water: They use natural groundwater sourced from the Mt. Hikosan system, slowly filtered through the volcanic rock of the “Yabakei Layer.” This water contains a perfect balance of minerals and is exceptionally clear. The original “square well” on the premises still flows with water today.
- Rice: The brewers grow their own sake rice in the fields directly in front of the brewery. These fields are irrigated with the same natural water used for brewing, creating a seamless connection between cultivation and production. Key varieties include Yamada Nishiki, Yume Ikkon, and Omachi.
- Brewing Technology: They practice low-temperature fermentation tailored to the Hita Basin’s cold climate. For standard and Honjozo classes, the temperature is kept around 15°C, while Ginjo classes are kept at a maximum of 10°C, allowing for a long, slow fermentation process.
- Manual Craftsmanship: The washing of highly polished rice is done by hand, with water absorption managed down to the second using a stopwatch. For Koji production, they use the “Futa-koji” method (small tray method), where the Toji stays overnight at the brewery to monitor the temperature and condition of the Koji.
- Shochu: In their barley shochu production, they also apply “high-polishing” techniques, milling away more than 50% of the outer barley layer to achieve a clear, clean flavor without impurities.
4. Current Initiatives
Inoue Shuzo is currently expanding its activities in both the preservation of tradition and the development of new products.
- “Yuri-shikomi” Series: This series is led by Yuri Inoue and involves ultra-small scale brewing in units of only 200 kilograms. This small scale allows the brewer to monitor every detail of the rice’s condition and fermentation progress, enabling precise manual adjustments.
- Preservation of Historical Assets: In 2016, the brewery’s main house, chimney, and wooden warehouse were designated as National Registered Tangible Cultural Properties. They also operate the “Seikei Bunko” archive, which displays historical Hina dolls and materials related to Junnosuke Inoue, serving as a hub for preserving regional culture.
- Brand Reconstruction: On their 200th anniversary, the brewery launched “Shodai Momosuke,” a barley shochu named after the founder, Tokuji (Momosuke) Inoue, diversifying their product lineup beyond refined sake.
- Succession: While preparing to transfer techniques and management to the 8th-generation successor, Hanako, the brewery is expanding its home-grown rice production and incorporating the delicate perspective unique to a female Kuramoto Toji.